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Broad Peak Rescue Update
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Jul 12, 2004 13: 42 EST
There are still some concerns about Fabien Anslemet who was evacuated off of Broad Peak with Yannick Faure after both climbers developed severe HACE while above C2. Fabien is still unable to speak properly and is not coherent, although the doctor belives he is past the point of real danger.

The rescue went off extremely well - the team was on the hop for over 30 hrs, lowering Fabien down the steeper slopes wrapped in his sleeping bag. They had oxygen and dex (Dexamethasone - see link) with them.

Dave Hancock, Field Touring Alpine director, commented about the rescue; "If one good thing came out of this, it was that we were able to test run our command and control system for such incidents. I was struck with
some element of detachment as I co-ordinated a rescue helicopter from a back-yard office in Mt Lawley, thousands of miles from the scene.

Amazingly, we managed to cut through the red tape and the chopper was on the scene immediately. That is extremely rare for Pakistan.

We took sat calls from other teams, used the Gban terminus, and maintained a overnight vigil with the wives and girlfriends of the sick climbers as things developed and the rescue proceeded.
I cannot say enough of Jamie, and apparently Dave Pritt of Adventure Peaks, for the effort mustered to get these guys down. There is no doubt they saved two lives while putting their own at significant risk."

Archive image of helicopter rescue courtesy of mountian.ru.
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