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Chad and Rory, ready for the summit bid
Jul 3, 2004 09: 48 EST
Due to AMS, the Austrian climbers were forced to turn back, leaving Chad
Kellogg and Rory Stark alone for the summit bit. Even though the weather
is not helping either, they are ready to try and become the firsts climbers
to summit Broad Peak this season. Here you are Chad’s last dispatch:
“We are in position for a summit attempt! This morning we woke up to
high winds and blowing snow. There was so much condensation inside the tent
it was snowing within as well.
The Austrians were camped feet away. They informed us that two of the
three members were suffering from edema. They descended immediately. Alfred
and Fred also informed us that they would also be descending for a few days
rest. That left Rory and I alone on the mountain with feet of new snow to
break trail through again. I believe that we would need to establish a fifth
camp near 24,500 ft if we are going to have a shot at the top.
Rory and I absolutely busted some serious ass to make it to 24,310 ft
by late afternoon. We went for it even though the weather was very poor.
By late afternoon the winds had subsided and we have a posh camp chopped
into a nest of seracs.
We plan on getting an early start if the weather conditions permit. This
is the highest either Rory or I have slept. I am looking forward to ditching
the heavy packs. God willing we will be the first to summit this year.”
Chad Kellogg is a native of Washington State. He has climbed Ama Dablam,
Aconcagua, Denali, and won the speed climb on Khan Tengri in 2003. Currently
he is on an expedition to Pakistan; Broad Peak and K2 double header. Longer-range
goals include speed ascents on 8,000-meter peaks and alpine style first ascents.
Live image of Rory on Broad provided by Contact 3.0, courtesy of Chad Kellogg.
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