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More Video of Broad Peak ForeSummit
Jul 12, 2004 17: 03 EST
Alfred
Schreilechner has sent in his latest reports from Broad Peak with two great
videos from the foresummit. It is apparent that the team really wanted the
main summit, that the weather was deteriorating quickly and that just getting
to that point was a success in its own right. Congratulations guys;
"We started at 2.00 AM for the summit. The snow was deep and horrible
and making the tracks was exhausting. After a while the 20 people who started
had given up (Fred already turned around after a few hundered meters), Chad
Rory and I, amongst others, reached Windy Col around midday (7800m).
At 15.30 an Italian, 2 Swiss, Rory Chad and I stood on the antesummit
(8035m). We could not proceed to the main summit, because the storm was too
severe and we could see a bad weather front coming towards us (when we saw
anything at all.). After not even 10 minutes we started descending and reached
our camp at 6700m around 17.30. Special thanks to Chad and Rory who did superhuman
work in making most of the tracks to the summit."
Alfred also reported today that Fred from their team is heading up for
the summit today. "As the weather report foretells fairly good weather for
the next two days, he wants to try the summit, hoping that some others will
do so, too. From Tuesday on towards the weekend weather should turn bad,
so we are planning our ascent of K2 for the next week.
During our summit bid on Broad Peak there has been a lot of progress
on K2. The porters of the Swiss/Italian Expedition have reached 7800m and
established Camp 3 and 4. We have to abandon the Cesen route because we would
only be three climbers there any more. The Japan Dosanko Team which is climbing
there does not make any progress and is too weak and has no experience. They
have reached Camp 1 and put fixed line from the bottom to there, where you
do not need any ropes at all. In addition to that, they use fishing line,
which is by far too stiff and too heavy for climbing."
Image of Alfred and Chad on the foresummit of Broad Peak courtesy of Alfred Schreilechner.
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