Retour
Jul 6, 2004 13: 11 EST
Weather:
Current satellite imagery indicates a fairly unstable air mass and plenty of low level clouds over the K2 area. Look for a good chance for showers today below 7500m with a slightly less of a chance tomorrow. Overall winds look to be light at mainly around 5-8 m/s below 7500m throughout the period. Winds above 7500m will be stronger at 10-17 m/s with higher winds near the Summit (15-23 m/s) throughout most of the period. There is a chance the winds will ease by the end of the period. Expect dry weather above 7500m.
Broad Peak:
Austrian Broad/K2 double After retreating to BC last week they are now preemptively heading up to Camp 1 hoping that a period of good weather will arrive thus allowing them to reach the summit.
Chad Kellogg and Alfred Schreilechner: report; This morning my tent collapsed again under the loads of snow. During the morning the weather improved. Before lunch 2 Yaks arrived in BC, one for our Expedition. We will eat parts of them for dinner. After lunch I have been going to Broad Peak Base Camp with Peter. The Austrian mountain guides have all been sleeping, but we ran into Chris Stangl. He accompanied us to K2 Base Camp and will stay for dinner.
Adventure Peaks Stuart Peacock reported on July 3rd; We spent this morning having a play with the new oxygen system, checking how it all fits together and trying out the nasal canular & mask.
The plan so far is that in the next couple of days we will go back up the hill with the intention of getting to camp 3 and then possibly make a summit attempt. I have decided to take the oxygen up with me and make my decision weather to use it at camp 3. Although Broad Peak is only just over 8000m (8047m), we have only had a short time at altitude, so oxygen may be necessary if an attempt is made so soon. Otherwise we will stay at Camp 3 for a night and then descend to BC in order to make a later summit bid.
Field Touring Alpine Jamie McGuiness reports; If the weather looks OK tomorrow we will head up to take advantage of the coming fine spell and establish at least Camp 3, and perhaps C 4.
As a team everyone is in good spirits and feeling fit too. We fixed 600m of rope on the alternative route up to Camp Half, a safer route except in deep snow, so we are pulling our weight with the other teams on the mountain.
So far most teams have established either Camp 2 (us) or a low Camp 3 at around 6500m rather than closer to 7000m. The snow was deep up there, hopefully the light to medium winds up there have firmed it up.
We will be on the mountain next for approx 4 days, so more news only after we return to BC."
Dutch The team reached Camp 1, just below 6000m and were back in BC as of last week.