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Named for its triple summitted crest and substantial breadth, Broad Peak
lies in a spectacular and remote region of the Pakistani Karakoram directly
opposite K2.
Climbing the mountain is a demanding undertaking, and although
the route is mostly non-technical and objectively safe (following crest ridges
for the majority of the ascent), it remains a significant 8,000m objective
This is a professionally led and organised 8000m expedition being
offered at a fee substantially below what has become expected for 8000m ascents.
The reason in part is that while the trip is organised and managed to the
greatest degree, it remains essentially a non guided, non commercial effort.
To this end it is required that all team members be self sufficient on the
slopes, and be able to undertake movement between the camps unsupervised.
Our hand picked leaders and high altitude porters will maintain
overall supervision of the climb, and ensure all camps are well stocked and
that your efforts are conducted in the safest of possible manners. However
to be an eligible member you must be competent, self confident, and posses
the necessary stamina and experience to be a contributing player in the ascent.
Ideally you would have at least one summit under your belt at or
above 6,000m, and preferably exposure to heights in excess of 6000m. You
must be competent in the use of ice/snow belays, and fully conversant with
all aspects of technical rope work and mountaineering. You will need to be
superbly fit, committed, and determined.
This expedition will comprise a group of like-minded individuals
pooling their efforts and talents to surmount a Himalayan behemoth, and while
you maintain a degree of personal decision making, and we strongly advocate
the notion of risk self management, team members must accept that the trip
leader has the right to lead with safety as the foremost consideration. Any
decisions regarding the climb are solely his, and while they will be undertaken
with due and constant consultation with the team, his primary concern is
both for the quality of the experience and the safe return of each member
of the group.
Our extensive previous experience in this region, involvement in
successful ascents of nearby 8,000m peaks, and long established contacts
with the best possible expedition staff and climbing porters provides a guarantee
of quality ground based logistics and expert leadership. Your contribution
will be to arrive in superb physical fitness, maintain a good temperament,
be a stoic and unswaying supporter of your team-mates, and be prepared to
give it your all when the time arrives.
Broad Peak is proving a good first time venue for aspiring 8000m
alpinists, with reasonable summit rates if the weather is clement. This program
has been priced to give climbers an affordable opportunity to test their
skills and endurance on a big mountain. If you want to climb a classic Himalayan
8,000er, in a remote and stunning setting, and with quality back-up and expert
leadership, then we invite your application for this affordable 2004 expedition.
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