Field Touring Alpine Expeditions 2004 Update Broad Peak 8047m

Gordy Ferguson (USA) also landed this morning, the first of some 21 members of the climbing parties to arrive. Word is, its HOT! But the crew will kick back in the comfort of the 4 star Shalimar Hotel (literally overrun with climbers this time of the year - its quite something to see 100's of expedition barrels sitting in the plush marbel tiled foyer!) while the rest of the members get in.

By the evening of the 16th everybody should have arrived, and the 17th will see the permit formalities completed at the Tourism Ministry, some shopping, and hopefully time for some sightseeing. If the flights are going on the 18th, Inshalla, we've got 24 names on seats for the quick version of the trip to Skardu.  

Next post from the team in Islamabad due in 24 hrs

Dave Hancock; FTA Office, Perth, Australia

Background: Australian based expedition and guiding company Field Touring Alpine is heading back to Broad Peak (8047m) in the Pakistani Karakoram in June. FTA's expedition last season saw Basque climber Alex Tixxon reach the true summit, with 4 other climbers reaching the rocky summit at just over 8000m. The return expedition will be implementing  some new tactics this season, which will likely include a higher camp 3 or even a camp 4. FTA director Dave Hancock noted the large number of turnarounds last year due to the lateness of the day, and while acknowledging this was not unusual for summit days on 8k peaks, thinks a higher camp will assist providing team acclimatisation has been met.

The commercial expedition company has placed NZ climber Jamie McGuiness as lead guide and expedition manager, and will fly in Aconcagua specialist Martin Girodo as tail guide. Australian climber Malte Hagge will also be on the support staff, having reached the summit snow fields last year. McGuiness has climbed 6 of the 7 8000m peaks he has guided with clients; Everest by the North side, Cho Oyu 3 times, and Shishapangma twice.

The expedition will be updating with images, and text during the course of the climb, commencing from Skardu on June 16.

Field Touring Alpine Broad Peak 2004

1. Jamie McGuiness           (NZ)                      Leader

2. Malte Hagge                     (AUS)                   Support

3. Olivier Dufresne                 (France)              

4. Amanda Padoan                (USA)

5. Dennis Charrier                  (France)

6. Haruki Inokuchi                  (Japan)               

7. Fabien Anselmet               (France)

8. Yannick Faure                    (France)              

9. Pierre Olivier Wolter                   (France)

10. Amir (Chilly) Cuturic         (Bosnia Herz)     

11. Mike Farris                       (USA)                  

12. Gordon Ferguson            (USA)

13. Taqui Mohammed           (PAK)                   Support

Stuart Remensnyder©

 

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