
Australian based
expedition and guiding company Field Touring Alpine is
heading back to Broad Peak (8047m) in the Pakistani
Karakoram in June. FTA's expedition last season saw
Basque climber Alex Tixxon reach the true summit, with 4
other climbers reaching the rocky summit at just over
8000m. The return expedition will be implementing some
new tactics this season, which will likely include a
higher camp 3 or even a camp 4. FTA director Dave
Hancock noted the large number of turnarounds last year
due to the lateness of the day, and while acknowledging
this was not unusual for summit days on 8k peaks, thinks
a higher camp will assist providing team acclimatisation
has been met.
The commercial
expedition company has placed NZ climber Jamie McGuiness as lead guide and
expedition manager, and will fly in Aconcagua specialist Martin Girodo as tail
guide. Australian climber Malte Hagge will also be on the support staff,
having reached the summit snow fields last year. McGuiness has climbed 6 of
the 7 8000m peaks he has guided with clients; Everest by the North side, Cho
Oyu 3 times, and Shishapangma twice.
The expedition will be updating with images, and
text during the course of the climb, commencing from Skardu on June 16.
Field Touring Alpine Broad Peak 2004
1. Jamie McGuiness
(NZ) Leader
2. Malte Hagge
(AUS) Support
3. Olivier Dufresne
(France)
4. Amanda Padoan
(USA)
5. Dennis Charrier
(France)
6. Haruki Inokuchi
(Japan)
7. Fabien Anselmet
(France)
8. Yannick Faure
(France)
9. Pierre Olivier Wolter
(France)
10. Amir (Chilly) Cuturic
(Bosnia Herz)
11. Mike
Farris (USA)
12. Gordon Ferguson
(USA)
13. Taqui
Mohammed (PAK) Support
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