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24 June, Urdukas Camp

We awoke to rain as usual, but the 4am dump had been much heavier and forced
some tough decisions. Now the rain was light but would it stay that way, or
stop altogether? Paiyu is the last comfortable camp, our porters had spent
yesterday eating goats and singing and making stacks of chapattis ready for
the harsh trek to BC. Today's long trail features rock fall whether it is
fine or damp but too much rain would be really dangerous.


Finally at 8:30 Jamie gave the all go, and then it was up to the porters -
the final say. They were keen, mainly because they don't want to waste time,
rather get back down ASAP to pick up another expedition team. We are three
days ahead of the trekking itinerary (which is never followed by
expeditions) and the climbers are happy, the porters happy.


It was time for good byes as the Gasherbrum II team were staying a second day at Paiyu
with a couple of people still noticing the altitude and minor sickness


On the trail the drizzle never turned to rain and by the time we reached
camp it had stopped, although we still didn't get any views. We haven't seen
any mountains yet on this supposedly most spectacular of walks.


Ian and Sue both remarked how clean the campsites are; in years gone by the
camping places were surrounded by "brown Mr Whippy's", logs of occasionally
outrageous size, brown porridge and pink paper flowers. Now all the camp
sites up to Urdukas have many toilets, sinks and even solar lighting, all
looked after by a camp manager - a huge improvement. These camps were built
last year by an NGO (non-Government organisation).