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Broad Peak At 8,047m, Broad Peak is the worlds' 12th highest mountain. Situated at the end of the Baltoro Glacier in the Pakistani Karakorum, directly opposite K2 8,611m, the worlds' 2nd highest mountain and in the same valley as the Gasherbrum peaks. The first ascent of Broad Peak was made on 9 June 1957 by Austrian climbers Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl without the use of supplementary oxygen or high altitude porters. Broad Peak, roundly held as one of the "easier" 8,000m peaks, and an ideal first 8,000m expedition, has seen an ever increasing number of alpinists from around the world converge upon her. The West Ridge Route Leaving base camp the first obstacle to reaching the route is an hour-long, wild meander among soaring 20m ice fins and along glacial rivers. After a few passages the trip becomes familiar and allows for taking in the staggering views of K2 which rise up in front of us the entire way. After following a rocky and awkward spine we reach the bergschrung--the second obstacle to gaining the lower slopes of the west ridge route proper. Early in the season this crevasse is crossable by a snow bridge but becomes more exciting as the snow melts and either an exposed climb through the icefall or short rappel into the bergshrung itself is necessary. As the crevasse will be equipped with a fixed line, it has proven to be an exhilarating and fun part of the climb for all involved. To Camp 1 The slopes leading up to Camp I range from deep snow in June, to rock and ice by the end of July. The constantly changing nature of these slopes during each day necessitate early starts to take advantage of the firm ground conditions. We will take considerable care to have fixed lines in several exposed sections, in particular the final slope leading into camp. After nearly 8 hours of effort the platforms of camp I at 5300m are a welcome sight. Perhaps the most exposed and dramatic camp on the route, it is here that we have the first opportunity to enjoy lolling about in our tents high above the glacier below. In the warm midday hours the melting snow above camp runs freely nearby and can be gathered up for a refreshing drink. Reaching Camp II The climbing above Camp I requires extreme care as we encounter some of the steepest climbing of the expedition. Nearing camp we climb several rocky steps with fantastic exposure, but with the security of fixed lines. Above the steps the ground levels out and provides an almost flat camp site, with stunning views down the Baltoro Glacier and across to K2. To Camp III and IV We leave Camp 2 following the crest of the ridge and gaining our first close ups of the uppermost slopes of Broad Peak. We ascend the ridge over mixed ground of rock / ice before reaching the couloir which empties out onto a broad snowfield. We ascend the snowfield to regain the crest ridge and follow it to the summit slopes. At the base of this slope, with the summit rocks in clear view, we establish Camp 3 at about 7200m. The summit may be attempted from camp 3 but in some years it is prudent to place a camp 4 closer to the col to make the summit day shorter and provide a safe haven on the descent. The Col & Summit Ridge It is here that the most exciting and demanding climbing will begin. We head for the prominent col between the Central and Main summits on 30deg ground, working our way through ice steps and seracs. The final 50m of fixed rope to the saddle at 7800m is on steep ground of around 50 degrees. The summit ridge meanders steeply to the south, after about 90m the angle eases but small rock pinnacles still need to be negotiated (fixed ropes are usually in place) before a final short and level walk to the summit. The usual experience of summiteers is that summit day takes anywhere up to 14 hours for the round trip from Camp 3. |